While we’ve already visited the US two times before the pandemic, Canada was never on our short list of holiday destinations. But this summer, we had the opportunity to spend roughly two weeks on the Eastern coast of North America and we had millions of ideas of what to do and see. We initially built everything around visiting the Niagara falls and going to Banff and doing some hiking in the Banff and Jasper national parks. But the cost of the flights from Toronto to Calgary, car rental to get to Banff and Jasper, accommodation + all the attractions in the area turned out to be almost 4000 euro/3 days. I know Canada is expensive, but that’s just crazy. So then, we decided to keep things on a budget and ended up dividing our 2 weeks into 10 days in the Eastern part of Canada and about 1 week in Boston.

Here’s our 10 days itinerary in Canada. More details on planning and the activities we did below.

Day 1.

Cluj-Napoca- Munich-Toronto with Lufthansa. Spent the night at Novotel North York. To get here we took the express train UP from the airport to Union Station in downtown Toronto, from where we switched to metro line 1 to get to Novotel North York (not required if you stay at a hotel in downtown Toronto).

Day 2.

(early morning). Early check-out. Took metro line 1 to Toronto Union station from where we boarded the Via Rail train towards Niagara falls. Train tickets were bought 2 weeks before online on https://www.viarail.ca. No seats are assigned. The train goes further to the US so there’s passport control before boarding the train in Toronto. They mention you need to be at the train station 30 minutes prior to departure.

We booked a simple hotel near Clifton Hill and close to the falls. We’ve recently seen the Iguacu falls in Brazil…you can imagine how tiny the Niagara falls felt once we got there. But, we loved the natural setting, the promenade along the falls and the river and the numerous parks and hiking options around the Niagara river and falls.

• We arrived by train at about 10 am and were not able to check-in. After we left our bags at the hotel, we headed towards the falls to walk alongside the American falls from the Visiors Center at the Rainbow Bridge up to Table Rock mountain and the Horseshoe falls of Canada. But on our way there, we found the amusement areas on Clifton Hill. There’s tons of attractions here, day and night with all sorts of rides and unhealthy stuff to eat. Needless to say, the one attraction that’s so easy to spot is the Speedy track with go karts that navigate their way on the spiralling ramps with rollercoaster vibes. There’s not much adrenaline involved, but definitely an elaborated track to ride a go kart on. And since I mentioned the unhealthy snacks around Clifton Hill, don’t forget to indulge in some utterly delicious Canadian beavertails. They’re right across the street from the Niagara SkyWheel.

• Free. We continued downhill towards the Visitors center and walked from here towards the Table Rock and the Horseshoe Falls going through Queen Victoria Park. This is the falls trail and is free of charge. You get to see the falls and feel the mist of the thundering water. There’s a nice restaurant right next to the falls (Table Rock House Restaurant), where we had lunch with a view towards the Horseshoe falls.

• Free. From here we continued walking towards the Dufferin Islands, a green hiking area with picnic spots and bridges over the water. Part of the area was created when the power plant was constructed and needed to draw water just near the islands. The area was nearly depleted of water and the company was requested to built some man-made islands and cascades to make them look more natural. To get back to the Niagara falls center, we took the Green bus (which is free of charge up to Table Rock).

• We spent the evening around Clifton hill and had dinner at Kelseys Original Roadhouse, near the SkyWheel and Ripley’s Believe it or not museum.

Day 3.

• Free. Today we took an uber up to Glen National Park visitors center. There are several themed hiking trails here, some take you close to the river, some take you to the viewpoint over the whirlpool in the river. Some trails are longer, others are shorter. Some focus on flora, others on fossils. They are not very demanding, but neither too easy. To get to the trails, you need to descend a lot of metal stairs. We did a combined hike going over a couple of trails to enjoy the river, the fossil part and the unusually eroded landscape. Bring water and snacks. And expect to see a lot of birds and chipmunks. There’s one trail that goes along the river up to a viewpoint over the whirlpool, but it was closed due to increasing water levels. All hiking trails are free. Only parking is chargeable with 8 CAD/day. More info on the park and a trail map here: https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit/attractions/niagara-glen-nature-centre.

• Free. Although the trail to get to the Niagara river whirlpool was closed and we couldn’t reach it from Glen National Park, we could still reach it by walking on the sidewalk along the main road. There’s an adventure course located near the whirlpool, on the main road and so is the departure station for the aerial cable car that goes over the whirlpool.

• Skylon tower. We took an uber back to downtown and went to the Skylon tower, which offers 360 degrees views of the nearby area and the falls, obviously. We bought our tickets on the spot, there was no queue, but it might be wise to buy them online. There are several options, but we wanted to see the falls in daytime, as well as during night time, when they are illuminated. There are also fireworks at 10pm, but apparently not everyday, so I suggest you check at the ticket office for the schedule. It is available online, but it doesn’t mention that they have fireworks in July (so the info on the website is not very reliable https://www.skylon.com/best-view-of-niagara-falls/fireworks/). So, we bought combo tickets for day and night admission and an extra activity, a 3d/4d movie legends of the falls. To be honest, it’s a 10 minute movie that you could easily skip and just stick with a day and night ticket. Just before you go up the escalator, they take your photo and you can buy these either printed or in digital format on your way out.

• We had dinner at Boston pizza, which to be honest was one of our favourites because they had big TV screens to watch sports (the Euro cup and the Copa America) and lots of salads and oven cooked meat (a healthier meal).

Day 4.

• Fallsview Indoor Waterpark. This was our last day in Niagara, so we decided to do something fun and relaxing at the same time. We bought our tickets online for this waterpark that is in the center of the town. Tickets: https://www.fallsviewwaterpark.com. It’s indoor, so great for rainy days. But also has a nice outdoor terrace to chill. The waterpark was very crowded, we waited for 20-30 minutes to go on one slide (the Canadian plunge), the rest were better with 5-10 minutes waiting time. They also have small lockers to fit maybe a smaller backpack. We needed two to fit our two backpacks and clothes. Lockers are rented at the terminals inside the waterpark, before the changing rooms using cards. If you plan to go, book online, as it is cheaper. Food and beverages are available inside. We spent about 3hours. Sadly, the boys got a skin rash…not sure if it was from the waterpark or the hotel swimming pool.
• In the afternoon, we took the Via Rail train back from Niagara falls to Toronto Union station. We chose a late afternoon train ride to spend more time in Niagara. This time there’s no passport control at the train station, but it’s better to get there at least 20 minutes before the departure. Once we arrived in Toronto, we switched to metro line 1 to head over to our hotel (Novotel North York).

There’s plenty more to do around the Niagara falls, on the Canadian side:

• Boat ride to the falls. You get a raincoat and board the boat that takes visitors close to the falls. It’s super crowded, but definitely worth it if you’ve never experienced the furry of tumbling water. Definitely book ahead to avoid queues. The boats depart from a pier close to the visitors center. Probably better to book the cruise that takes you to see the fireworks. Book here: https://www.cityexperiences.com/niagara-ca/city-cruises/niagara/
• Journey behind the falls. Yet another way to get close to the falls. By walking this time. Crazy crowded, except for early morning. Tours start at the Table Rock center. Book here: https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit/attractions/journey-behind-the-falls/
• Zipline to the falls. The name is tricky as you are sooo far away from the falls. This was something we wanted to try, but once we saw it, we were no longer interested. It’s a lot less spectacular compared to the online photos. And also quite pricey. The starting point is next to the visitors center. Best to book ahead, but definitely check it out before you book to avoid disappointment. The zipline is visible from the promenade along the falls. There’s also the option of going on an adveture course, located near the Niagara whirlpool. More info on both and booking here: https://www.wildplay.com/niagara-falls
• Cable car over the river whirlpool. It’s just a cable car ride that takes you over one side of the river to the other and back. While traveling above the river, you get to see the whirlpools in the thundering river beneath. Book here: https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit/attractions/whirlpool-aero-car.
• Visit the old power station and its tunel. The tunnel takes the visitor to the edge of the river on a terrace overlooking the falls. It looks stunning at night and it is one of the less crowded attractions. More info here: https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit/attractions/niagara-parks-power-station
• White water walk. A boardwalk on the edge of the roaring river, one of the wildest ones in North America, with several viewpoints along the way. More info here: https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit/attractions/white-water-walk.
• Free. Visit the Botanical Garden. Except for the indoor exhibitions, the botanical garden is free to visit. There’s also a Butterfly Conservatory near the botanical garden (tickets required).

We did not choose to do any of the above. Partly because we just experienced boat rides at the Iguacu, partly because we found free and wilder alternatives, instead.

Day 5.

We spent 3 more nights in Toronto with 2 and half days, before going to Montreal. Toronto is a bustling city similar to New York or Tokyo or Seoul with huge skyscrapers, rushing people, traffic and background noise, apart from the Harbourfront area where things appear to be a little bit calmer. As the largest city in Canada, Toronto offers many attractions. There’s tons to see and do. In our 2 and a half days in Toronto we did the following:

• We started day one at the Casa Loma, a beautiful castle built in 1914, now a major site for Toronto events and one of the top attractions of Toronto. Not exactly amazing for us, as Europe is home to thousands of old historic castles, but worthwhile to visit for a different perspective on Toronto. To get here we took metro line 1 and exited at Dupont station. https://casaloma.ca

• From Casa Loma we took line 1 back to Osgode station to see the Toronto sign in Nathan Phillips Square and the adjacent Old City Hall, which looks so odd in comparison to all the glass skyscrapers that surround it.

• We decided to walk towards Harbourfront, which is roughly 25 minutes away on foot. And on the way we stopped in Roundhouse Park, near the CN Tower. There’s a cute little playground here as well, great for kids. But the main attractions here would be the Toronto Railway Museum, an indoor/outdoor museum telling the story of the Canadian railway. Some of the trains are located right outside and possible to visit without paying an entrance fee. They also have a small train that goes around the park on narrow tracks. Super fun experience that lasts roughly for 15 minutes. Tickets cost 5 CAD/person. More on the railway museum here: https://torontorailwaymuseum.com

• CN tower is near the Railway Museum and offers great views over the city. We’re not really fun of these kind of attractions, but if you’re into climbing tall buildings or dining in revolving restaurants with views or walking on the edge of huge skyscrapers while holding on to dear life, then this is the place for you. Book here: https://www.cntower.ca. To be honest, in my opinion, it’s better to just cross over to Centre Islands and see the skyline with the CN tower hoovering above the skyscrapers. And we chose to go up the Skylon tower for views over the Niagara falls instead.

• Also near the CN tower and great if you’re with smaller kids is the Ripley’s Aquarium of Canada. Discounted prices are available is you plan to visit both the aquarium and the CN tower. Other nice stuff to do with kids, but located about 1h-1h30min away from downtown Toronto arethe Toronto Zoo and Legoland Discovery Center.
• We ended the day with dinner at the Amsterdam Brewhouse in the harbour front area.

Day 6.

• So it’s no news that we love a good museum. Which is why, after our Stockholm experience, where I honestly thought that we were not going to see everything because we spent 3 days visiting only 3 museums, I planned one day only just for the Royal Ontario Museum. This is the largest museum in Canada and although I have seen it classified as an art museum, it’s so much more than that. It’s best to book ahead, as it is also one of the prime attractions in Toronto. It spans over 4 floors aaaand we managed to see maybe half of it. Just as you enter the museum, to the right of the main hall, there’s a huge dinosaur skeleton. The best part of the museum, if you have kids with you, is the second floor. We started with the dinosaurs exhibition, the dawn of life gallery, marvelled at some funny lucking gems in the gallery dedicated to Earth’s treasures, before moving through the exhibition on biodiversity to land an area dedicated to play. The bat cave nearby was also fun. Plan and book online here: https://www.rom.on.ca/en

• In the late afternoon-evening we walked towards the Distillery District, an upscale area in Toronto, in a former whiskey distillery plant. The cobblestoned alleys and red-brick buildings have given a new utility to this former plant and its buildings. The Distillery District is now home to many restaurants, art galleries or shops and houses various events. It’s one of the places that combine the European atmosphere in a hip and cool place that reminds you of New York. We had dinner and drinks at Spirit of York Distillery Co, which has an amazing interior setting and some really tasty whiskey-based cocktails.

Toronto by night

Day 7.

• Centre Islands. A huge green area, with an amusement park, as well as a beach, a splash pad, playground, a maze and restaurants/cafes. Great to spend a sunny day. Amazing views of the Toronto skyline with the CN tower. Accessible via taxi boats or ferry. Ferrys are super crowded and sometimes you need to wait for more than 1 hour to get on board. Check ferry schedule here: https://www.toronto.ca/explore-enjoy/parks-recreation/places-spaces/beaches-gardens-attractions/toronto-island-park/all-ferry-schedules/ We arrived at 11:40am to catch the 12:10 pm ferry. But it was super crowded and we couldn’t get on board. The next ferry was scheduled at 12:50pm. Adult tickets are 9.11 CAD, kids under 14 pay 4.29 CAD. The price includes the return trip. We already paid for our ticket so we couldn’t get a refund, but we decided to not waste any more time and get a taxi boat instead. These depart from near the ferry terminal: https://maps.app.goo.gl/CE3gYXBfi84EbWqM8. Taxis are faster, but more expensive (12.50 CAD/pers). And they operate non stop, without a predefined schedule.

• In the afternoon we took the Via Rail train from Toronto to Montreal. We booked this ride in advance and selected also seats and large baggage. Travel time took about 6 hours, we had more than half an hour delay.

Day 8.

We spent 3 nights in Montreal close to the old town area. Montreal is so much different compared to Toronto. Sure its has its big skyscrapers, but there’s a lurking European feel compared to the more American Toronto and Niagara Falls, especially when you stroll Montreal’s old town. We stayed in a cosy studio at the Residence Inn Montreal Downtown. We arrived in Montreal late evening by train from Toronto. The hotel is within walking distance from the Montreal central station. We had two full days in Montreal and here’s what we did.

• Free. Our hotel was 20 minutes walking distance from Mount Royal. We wanted to reach the Kondiaronk Belvedere point, a terrace with views over the entire city. To reach the viewpoint, we climbed the grand staircase of mount royal. The easier route is via the winding trail, which also takes longer. From the viewpoint, we followed the signs to Beaver Lake fountain, that had no working fountain. But the area is great for picnics and relaxation. There’s also a cute playground and small cafeteria. The park is popular with both tourists and locals, especially for running. Allow at least 1h-1h30minutes to cover the entire park area from the viewpoint to the lake and to enjoy the green scenery.

• We exited the park on the Chem. de la Côte-des-Neiges and went to the Guy-Concordia station to take metro line 1 up to the Olympic Park, the former site of the 1976 Summer Olympics. We got off at Viau station, which is right next to the Olympic Park. The buildings that once housed the olympic events are now transformed into several museums and exhibitions. The Biodome is an indoor zoo with 4 ecosystems from the American continents. A trail starting from the main Atrium takes the visitors around the Tropical Rainforest, the Maple Forest and The Gulf of St. Lawrence or Subpolar Regions. What’s great about the Biodome is the combination of flora and fauna that creates a complete ecosystem. The racoon was a little too shy and we barely saw it. But we finally had a close look at the beaver. The Biodome has a top floor with interactive stations that educate on biodiversity and how the staff maintains the natural equilibrium inside each ecosystem. Kids get to play several games as the supervisor of the Biodome and make critical decisions to preserve the life balance in the ecosystems. We spent 1h30minutes inside the Biodome and we went twice through all ecosystems.

• Located near the Biodome is the Planetarium, which we did not visit this time. Keep in mind that if you plan to visit more than 3 museums in the Space for Life, it’s more convenient to get the “passport”: https://espacepourlavie.ca/en/passport. Otherwise, paying for each of the 5 museum can be a bit expensive. Other museums in the Space for Life cluster, apart from the Biodome and the Planetarium, are the Botanical Garden, Insectarium (located near the Biodome) and the Biosphere (a museum dedicated to environmental issues, located further away, on St. Helen’s Island in the Jean Drapeau Park).
• We grabbed a quick lunch right next to the Biodome. There are a couple of food stalls selling mostly fast food. We ate a delicious putine dish, one of Canada’s traditional dishes. There’s a simple restaurant inside the Biodome, as well.

• The Botanical Garden is a 10-minutes walk from the Bidodome and Planetarium and one of the largest and most diverse in the world. The most interesting part is the First Nations Garden, a trail that goes through the forest with exhibitions on the cultural heritage coming from the tribes of Canada. The Japanese and Chinese gardens are spectacular, but the Alpine area is fantastic. The small toxic plant garden is very educative and interesting. The Insectarium is right next to the entrance to the Botanical Garden.

Day 9.

• Free. It was a very warm Sunday, with clear skies. We headed over to the picturesque area of Old Montreal that is so different than Toronto and Niagara. It almost has an European vibe. There are numerous restaurants and cafes and we recommend you stop by the Crew Collective & Cafe, a c-working space and cafe in the old town, located in a former building of the Royal Bank of Canada. It has impressive high ceilings and great architecture. The Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal is a top attraction See below for more on this. Place Jacques Cartier is beautiful and has such a holiday feel. If you walk up the street to Vauquelin Place, the City Hall and Ramezay castle are immediately to the right.

• Free. Old Port of Montreal is great for outdoor walks along the river. There are numerous food stalls, although no actual cafes and restaurants. The famous Cirque du Soleil is located here and has several shows throughout the day. Of course, you can zipline and ride the giant Montreal Wheel. We walked all the way to the Clock Tower on the quay that overlooks St. Helen’s island and La Ronde amusement park. The quay hosts different events and this time they had a small Caribbean festival that reminded us of our holidays on the Caribbean islands. There’s even a sandy beach on the left bak of the quay and a small playground!

• Not to be missed. When you google Montreal top sights, the Aura Experience at the Notre Dame Basilica is amongst the first ones to emerge. If you have to choose one thing only to see/do in Montreal, than this is it: a light and music show inside a huge cathedral lasting for 25 minutes. The shows usually start at 7 or 9 pm, but you need to be there 15 minutes early. There was a long queue at the entrance, but the staff was very well organized and it took us less than 10 minutes to get in. The show started at 7:05 pm. It’s obviously forbidden to film or photograph the show, but it’s really amazing. The cathedral walls turn into a living canvas that tells the story of seasons (we loved spring and autumn), or that of a glass ceiling simulated on the cathedral roof with pouring rain and thunderstorms. Water levels start to raise and waves begin crashing in the windows and spreading waves of light inside the cathedral. Then, visitors are hooked to a simulated flight amongst clouds, while the music switches from calm to alert tunes. Tickets need to be bought ahead of time. Impossible to book on the spot. Buy them here: https://www.basiliquenotredame.ca/en/. The photos below are immediately before and after the show!

Day 10. Flying from Montreal to Boston. We already have our USA visas. In Montreal airport, there’s a dedicated terminal from where airlines fly into the USA. There’s also the USA border control in the airport, which means that once you have passed this, there will be no other border control when you land in the USA. The entire interview with the officer lasted about 5 minutes. They asked about our trip, the length and location, took our fingerprints and photo and that was it.

Practical info follow below.

Internet. We used the e-sim from revolut and it worked well in Toronto, Niagara and Montreal. Also in Boston. We chose a data plan that included a larger region (Canada+USA), rather than buying separate data plans for each country. Free wifi is also available in most touristic places, restaurants, etc.

Visa. One week before traveling to Canada, we applied online for ETA. The application procedure is fast and we received or ETA in less than 24 hours. It costs 7 USD/ person. ETA online: https://www.canada.ca/en/immigration-refugees-citizenship/services/visit-canada/eta/apply.html

Arrival into Canada. We travel with our son, who is younger than 16. In this case, once you arrive in Canada, there are dedicated machines to fill in your arrival form. They are placed in areas before passport control and marked with signs labeled Family or Under 16. You need to scan all passports, then a photo is being taken for each adult. You are prompted with several questions regarding the things you bring with you in Canada and the duration of your stay. At the end you receive a small printout which you need to take further to the officers at border control. Don’t throw it away. After you pick your luggage from the belts, you need to show this printout once again to the customs officers, before exiting the airport.

Getting around Toronto. We used the metro lines (especially line 1 to get to most attractions) and the buses (No 121D, 202 only to get to the Distillery district and back to Union station). If you plan to ride more than 4 times/day, it’s worth to buy a day pass. Tickets can be bought at the ticketing machines for the metro, or directly on the bus from the driver. Payment by card is possible. From the airport to downtown Toronto, the most convenient way is to use the UP line.

Geting around Montreal. Most attractions are concentrated in the area around the old town and port. We walked a lot, took uber on short distances or rode the metro line 1 (to get to the Olympic Park). We arrived via rail and the train station is near the city center. To get to the airport, we took an uber.

Getting around Niagara falls. We traveled with the local bus on one occasion (when we returned from Dufferin Islands and the bus was free up to Table Rock – here you need to buy tickets to ride the bus to different stations), walked a lot and took uber when absolutely necessary. In fact, the day pass for the bus is only worth it if you plan to ride the bus a lot. Otherwise, if there’s 3-4 people sharing, uber is faster and mostly the same price for short distances compared to 3-4 bus tickets. More info on the buses: https://tinyurl.com/jktp3rpv.

Traveling around Canada between Toronto, Niagara falls and Montreal. We used the Via Rail trains for traveling from Toronto to Niagara Falls and back, as well as from Toronto to Montreal. Train tickets were bought 2 weeks before online on https://www.viarail.ca. No seats are assigned on short distances (such as Toronto to Niagara and back, a ride that took approximately 2 hours). Seats are assigned for longer distances such as Toronto to Montreal (travel time took about 6 hours, we had more than half an hour delay). Don’t forget to specify that you are traveling with large bags when booking the train, as there’s limited space available.